Fakarava Tuamotus French Polynesia June 2023

Things got a bit gnarly in Tahanea when a sudden wind shift produced some big chop, spun us onto a lee shore, and wrapped our anchor chain around multiple bommies (submerged coral head). After a fraught hour untangling our chain, a hasty exit ensued, requiring a sweaty-palmed, wild ride through breaking waves at the atoll pass into open ocean. A very gentle overnight downwind sail delivered us to Fakarava in time for sunrise.

A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, the Tumakohua Pass, in Fakarava, is famous for its “wall of sharks”, which attracts divers from all over the world. Up to 700 grey sharks gather inside the narrow pass during a full moon, to feed on the spawning groupers.
With our kid boat friends, we drift snorkelled, and drift dived the Tumakohua Pass several times. A myriad of colourful reef fish, co-existing with hundreds of grey sharks and black tip reef sharks, stunning coral gardens and incredible visibility made for an extraordinary, David Attenborough-esque spectacle. Watch our video here

Once we were all dived out, we ventured to the SE corner of the atoll to Harifa where a vast fleet of kid boats had gathered. A perfect sandy beach, with no inhabitants, only free-range pigs, and Twist, the Pacific’s most affectionate cat.

Harifa is best known as one of the top wing foiling spots in French Polynesia. Angus and I had a first lesson and though bruised and sore afterwards, are now well and truly hooked.

Fresh fruit and veg, or rather the absence of it, is probably one of the top topics of conversation amongst cruising boats in the Tuamotus. Only coconuts grow here, and supply ships visit rarely and often with disappointing cargos. Having exhausted my repertoire of meals made exclusively from dried and tinned foods, we left Harifa for the town of Rotoava after rumours of an imminent visit from a supply ship. Alas, we found only mouldy oranges and a sad lettuce priced at $15. We were compensated though, with the discovery of an aquatic beach bar, Havaiki Lodge, where reef sharks swim past as you sip on your cool Hinano.

Life is good. x