In our two + years of exploring many of the most spectacular corners of the globe, we have been privileged to witness much spectacular beauty and to meet some inspiring individuals and communities. However, our next stop in Fulaga was to surpass anywhere we had visited previously. Very much off the beaten track, with no airport and visited just once a month by a supply ship, Fulaga, in Fiji’s Lau island group has been our most remote and our most captivating destination.
After an especially torturous, vomit-inducing, two day, 250nm up-wind sail from Savusavu, we arrived inside the jungle-topped reef, into a lagoon of staggering beauty and tranquillity. Crystal clear waters are dotted with multiple palm-topped, mushroom shaped islets carved from towering limestone pillars. Once anchored, we dinghied ashore and walked along a jungly 1km long track, festooned with banana palms and enormous butterflies, to the village of Muanaicake. As is customary when visiting Fijian villages, we had brought with us a gift of kava root to present to the village chief. Once inside his home, Chief Simon formally welcomed us to the village and introduced us to Bill and his parents, Lucy and Niko. Muanaicake village families take turns to host visiting sailors allowing an authentic insight into community life.
Throughout our stay in Fulaga, Bill, Lucy and Niko proved to be incredibly generous and thoughtful hosts. We were invited into their home where Lucy prepared tea and coconut pancakes for us over an open fire. Decorated with gorgeous traditional Fijian fabric and woven mats, their home is very simple, just two rooms with no running water and minimal furniture. Their one solar panel was broken and they’d run out of bottled gas. Outside, they grow orchids and pandanus leaves which Lucy uses to weave floor mats which are sold in Suva. Over the coming days we were fortunate to spend time getting to know our family, to learn about their traditions, beliefs and about the challenges and joys of living in Fulaga. We were invited to join the villagers at church on Sunday which was followed by an enormous, feast, all cooked in a lomo (an under-ground pit, lined with hot coals).
Bill took us exploring all over the island, the highlight of which was a visit to a remote cave full of human remains, purportedly belonging to invading Tongans who were summarily dispatched and cannibalised by the local villagers.
Anchored with us in the lagoon were kid boats from Australia, South Africa, New Zealand, and the USA. When not visiting the village, the kids gathered on the beach to build fires, climb trees, practice their machete skills and to weave palms. Not a lot of formal boat schooling went on in Fulaga! The villagers hosted a birthday party in their community hall for Felix, who turned seven years old, whilst in Lau. Everyone from the village was invited for food and birthday cake. The evening ended with a heavy kava session, the communal coconut shell doing many rounds…
Life in Fulaga is very simple and people have very little, and yet we were treated with such genuine kindness and generosity. We are so thankful to Bill, Niko and Lucy and to the wider community for our time in Fulaga.
‘Sota tale’ (see you again).
Sailing Mowzer 